Sunday, February 23, 2014

ARGGGG! I'm a snazzy 80s business woman... NO, I'M A PIRATE!




Shiver me timbers.  It's a real live authentic pirate coat stolen from dangerous sea captain: Hook!? Morgan!?  Crunch!?  It is also a trendy 80s business woman's coat from Talbots.

Here's how I got from High Fashion, to High Seas!
To start with, take off the lapels, cut the collar a few inches below the shoulders and cut from that line directly down to the bottom of the jacket.
It's a good idea to serge or zig zag this edge so that it doesn't pull apart or fray.

Now find a fun material to add a 16 inch extension along the bottom.  Velvet, upholstery material, or this quilted satin that I used are all great choices.  Measure the bottom edge of the jacket and create a double sided panel.   With ribbon, add military points and accents, it's always easier to do these before it's sewn on the jacket.    


Attach the extension to the bottom of the coat and measure from the collar to the middle of the extension for the lapel length.  These you definitely want to decorate before adding to the coat.  Don't go overboard with expensive trim, I did all the designs on this coat with two kinds of ribbon and some buttons.

Attach the lapels with the right side sewn to the inside of the jacket, flap them over and... Holy Davy Jones Footlocker!


It's starting to look piratey!!!  Take buttons and sew the lapel to the jacket, tacking them at the end of each point.  Now it's time for cuffs.  Measure the inside of the sleeve and create trapezoids with the inside of the cuff measurement at the small part of the trapezoid widening 6 inches on the opposite edge.  


Sew the right edge of the fabric to the inside of the cuff, flap the fabric down and cuff it on top of itself.


I know that's a mouthful, but play with it and you'll get it.  


For a bit of tailoring, add a gather bar in the back.  This will slim the waist and give the bottom a fullness.

Well yo ho ho, you're a sexy pirate, or rum runner, or Red Coat, or extra from a high school production of 1776.  There is no limit to what these basics can create in period clothes.  Be creative, don't sew/glue your fingers together, and have fun.